I had the pleasure of speaking with Niko Cohen (they/them), the owner of Lavender Thread Co., about their journey into costume design and their unique creative process. I found the conversation fascinating, and I hope you do too.

Early Passion and Diverse Influences

From a young age, Niko harbored a passion for painting and illustration, drawing inspiration from Japanese comics, anime, and street fashion. Initially contemplating a conventional fine arts path, such as painting, their journey took an unexpected turn towards costume production at Boston University. This decision was motivated by a desire to engage in hands-on, real-world applications, particularly sewing. Costume production provided Niko with fresh learning opportunities that diverged from their earlier studies in painting and illustration.

While in university, the world of figure skating found its way into Niko’s life, inspired by the captivating series “Yuri!!! on ICE“.  Figure skating, coupled with the challenges presented by the global pandemic that brought theater work to a standstill, prompted Niko to approach the renowned costume designer Yumi for sewing opportunities. Niko’s additional drawing skills soon became the gateway to a burgeoning career in costume design, culminating in the establishment of their own business.

The Creative Process: A Holistic Approach

Niko’s approach to creating costumes goes beyond the conventional. Beginning with in-depth client meetings, Cohen delves into understanding the character the skater is portraying, along with the emotions and feelings evoked by the performance. The integration of listening to the skater’s music adds another layer to this holistic approach.

Recognizing figure skating as both a physical and mental sport, Niko’s decisions on fabrics and designs are influenced by the demands of the sport. As a skater and a non-binary, trans person, Cohen’s attention to detail is remarkable, ensuring each costume is a tailored puzzle that complements both the physical and mental aspects of the skater.

Prioritizing Communication and Comfort

Communication is paramount in Niko’s design process. Understanding the skater’s energy, aesthetics, and any specific concerns ensures a collaborative and successful design journey. Niko emphasizes the importance of addressing skaters’ preferences, whether it’s a desire for a more secure fit or a flowing design. Comfort and confidence are non-negotiable, making it evident that the skater’s satisfaction is the top priority.

Sustainable Future and Fashion Trends

Niko’s commitment to sustainability shines through with plans to introduce a rental section to their company and the option to design costumes for reuse in subsequent seasons. The conversation also touched on emerging trends in figure skating costumes, with an observation of the rising popularity of body suits and a personal wish to see more greens incorporated into designs.

Comment below – what trends would you like to see in costume design for figure skating?